Changing your own oil is a good way to save money over the quickie lube places, and it is fast becoming a lost skill.
Fortunately, doing an oil change is not rocket science. I change my own oil at home and I'd like to share a couple of tips that have helped me to make this process easier and less messy.
Here is what you need to get started:
- Motor Oil. I use 4 qts for my Toyota Corolla. It costs $20.42 for 12 qts at Sam's Club, which comes out to $6.81 for each oil change
- Oil Filter $4.39 at Advance Auto Parts
- Filter Wrench I use the kind that fits onto a ratchet wrench. Get the right size to match your filter. You can also get a dedicated oil filter wrench at the auto parts store
- Funnel For filling engine with new oil
- Crescent Wrench or Ratchet set For removing the oil pan drain plug
- Oil catch pan with spout For getting rid of the old oil
- Empty plastic bottles With wide mouth for taking old oil to be recycled. I use old kitty litter bottles, but you can use any bottle or container you like.
- Rag For wiping up spills
- Ramps or Jack For lifting the car. I use plastic ramps, a lot of people prefer metal. Your call.
- Jackstands or cinder blocks For safety- keep the car from falling on you. I should really use these, but I haven't yet...
- Large piece of Cardboard for protecting your driveway (optional)
- Rubber Gloves for keeping oil off of your hands (optional)
After all of the one time purchases on this list, it costs me about $11 for each oil change. Cheaper than the $20 or $30 of the quick lube joint. And I don't have to deal with pushy salesmen trying to upsell me air filters.
First, turn on your car and run the engine for a minute or so to warm up the oil so that it flows well.
Straighten the wheels and stop the engine. Line up the ramps straight with the wheels and stick them under the wheels. Place your cardboard between the ramps.
Start the car and drive slowly onto the ramps.
Put on rubber gloves. Lie down on your back and scoot under the car. Find the oil pan drain plug.
Place the oil catch pan underneath the drain plug.
Remove the drain plug with a crescent wrench or ratchet. Make sure you catch both the oil pan drain plug and gasket if there is one. (gasket looks like a small washer) It gets messy if you have to fish these out of the used oil.
Let the oil drain into the pan. If you are working outside, be aware that on a windy day the draining oil may be blown around by the wind. You can use a tarp or large piece of cardboard etc. to block the wind if needed. Wait until the oil has drained. (this may take a few minutes. It's not important to get every last drop out, but you want to get 99% of it drained.) Replace the drain plug and gasket. (be careful not to over-tighten...)
Locate the oil filter. Position the oil catch pan underneath the oil filter.
Fit the filter wrench onto the ratchet. Place the filter wrench onto the oil filter and turn counterclockwise to remove filter.
At this point I want to mention that I had some trouble getting the old oil filter off. My filter wrench no longer fits onto the oil filter since Fram started putting a rubber grip coating on the end of the oil filter. It might be better to use a dedicated oil filter wrench which will fit any filter.
However I did not have one so I had to use a large pair of channel locks to get the filter off. (shown on the left)
Some more oil will drain after removing the filter. This should not take long to drain out.
Dispose of the old oil filter and get out the new oil filter. Turn it so that the rubber gasket is facing up and pour a small amount of new oil onto the rubber gasket. Spread the oil around the rubber gasket so that the entire gasket has a small coating.
Use your rag to wipe the area where the old oil filter was. Then install the new oil filter where the old one was. When you do this,
do not use any tools. Hand Tighten Only. Turn the filter counterclockwise with your hand. There should not be any resistance, this should be very easy to turn. If it is difficult, then it is cross-threaded. Unscrew it and start over. At a certain point the filter's gasket will make contact with the metal. At this point, you will want to turn the filter an extra 1/2 or 3/4 turn depending on your particular car. Remember, it doesn't have to be too tight, as the filter will expand when heated by the hot engine oil.
It is important not to over tighten, as it will only make your job more difficult next time you change the oil.
Now it is time to put the new oil in your engine. Open the hood and locate the oil fill cap on the top of your engine. Unscrew the oil fill cap and set it aside where it will not fall down into the engine compartment and get lost.
Place the end of the funnel into the oil fill tube and pour the oil slowly into the engine.
After you've put in all the new oil, replace the oil fill cap securely.
You're all done with the main part of the oil change, now we just have to get rid of the old oil. Pour it into your bottle or other container. This kitty litter bottle holds several oil changes worth of oil.
Take the containers with the old oil to your local auto parts store or mechanics shop for recycling. Here in Pennsylvania, most places that sell oil at retail also will recycle your old oil. They filter it and it is then picked up by a recycling company and burned for heat.
Wait a little while for the oil to settle down into the oil pan and then check the oil level. Open the hood and find the dipstick. Pull it out, wipe it with a rag and replace it all the way. Pull it out again and check the oil level on the end of the dipstick. Make sure that the oil level is in the acceptable range indicated by the marks on the dipstick. Then replace the dipstick and close the hood.
Congratulations, you've changed your own oil. Now would be a good time to check your tire pressure as well. I like this little compressor from Black & Decker, it lets you dial in the pressure you want to use and automatically stops when it reaches the right pressure.
Hope this was helpful. Good Luck, and may you never set foot in a quickie lube place again.
Jon
