CCC - Part 4. Framing and Electrical
Ok, this is the part I expect to get the most flak. I'm not an electrician, but have a health respect for those that are. I've worked with two very qualified men in the past and have been taught what can't, can, and should be done and what the difference is between all three. They were both diligent about keeping me alive (Dad and uncle, they had a vested interest.
) Here goes:
Framing was next. Each container had one end that was doors, and one end that was solid. We alternated ends so that each end of the cabin had exit. The front was framed for a half glass, half solid door and window. The window provides additional light and a place for a window AC unit. The back wall has a large window that slides to the left for an emergency egress. We used traditional 2X4 stud framing for the walls to accommodate wiring, insulation, and hanging of the finished wall. However the metal tube channel at the top required that we used a power actuated nailer to drive nails vertically through the top plate and into the steel. The top plate of the stud wall stuck out enough from underneath the metal tube to give us a place to support the 2X4 ceiling joists. Keep in mind that the walls are only bearing the weight of the finished wall and ceiling and aren’t structural so we can deviate from proper framing practices safely. Likewise, we only penetrated the inner wall of the tube channel, the exterior integrity of container was maintained. In the middle of the two containers we don’t have a stud wall under the metal tube to support the 2X4 ceiling rafters so we horizontally nailed a ledger board. We then used 2X4 joist hangers to support the rafters on this end. The aforementioned roof gap that we sealed previously makes a great electrical chase.
Once framed up, the siding was placed on the front and back walls and holes cut for windows and doors. The main breaker box (technically a sub box from the main on the pole) was located and wire was run to the many outlets and two overhead lights. The circuits and outlets are as follows: (1)circuit & outlet for AC unit, (1) circuit and outlet for the refrigerator, (1) circuit w/ 3 outlets for the kitchen counter and microwave (probably should have given the microwave its own circuit, given the watts pulled by it and the two cooking plates we have. We rarely use them all at once, so its manageable, but not ideal), (1) circuit and (2) outlets for the bunk bed (each bed has its own outlet for a fan, light, charging phones, etc... I still need to install a small shelf above each bed for these. Think Navy coffin racks; I am a Marine after all), (1) circuit w/ (3) outlets around the Master bed, (1) circuit w/2 outlets on each side of the futon, (1) circuit w/ (2) exterior outlets, and (1) circuit each for the (2) overhead LED lights. I’ll admit, its not efficient wiring, its simple wiring. If there are problems, they should be very isolated and easily troubleshot. I’m not an electrician, but my father and uncle were and have signed off on previous subpanels I’ve installed. Yes, they humorously belittle my inefficiencies (both being Navy men, and I a lowly Jarhead), but declared them safe and serviceable. They’ve both passed away now, but what they taught me has lasted.
All that being said, connecting the main power to the pole was one of the last things to get done. In retrospect, Im not sure that was wise. Once insulation and finish walls were installed (more on that later), if there was a problem, Im not sure how I would have resolved it. This weighed heavily on my mind until I flipped the main on and everything worked as designed. The aforementioned extension cord ran up the ‘outfeed’ conduit to the main box. Usually we just used the extension cord connected to a power strip. However, we did do something a couple of times that I strongly do not recommend: We used a suicide cord (male-to-male cord) connected to the power strip to plug into one of the counter outlets and back feed one entire leg of the main box. Now before any electricians go nuts, let me explain. The main box was not connected to the pole yet, so there was no way to hurt anyone on the grid. The wiring to the pole wasn’t even in in the ground yet so that part is completely isolated and safe. I’m a huge proponent of properly switched generator/grid power and would never advocate back feeding a physically connected circuit. No, the danger here is that someone could have inadvertently unplugged the suicide cord from the wall while it was still energized. This would have left the exposed male prongs electrically hot and been very dangerous. I was very glad when we were able to stop this practice after two accident-free trips. Again, not advocate doing this and in retrospect we shouldn't have done it.
Speaking of properly switched power, we do have a method of switching from grid power to generator power. Under the cabin there are 3 short 4X4 posts for electrical connections. The middle post has a male prong and feeds the cabin. The left post has a female outlet that comes from the pole, and the right post has a female outlet that comes from a future generator. Normally the cabin is plugged into female grid outlet. To switch to generator power, you switch off the mains inside the cabin, switch off the mains at the pole, unplug the cabin’s male plug (which would then be de-energized and safe to touch), plug it into the female generator outlet, start the generator, then turn the cabin mains back on. Grid and generator power are physically separated so it is impossible back feed. Likewise with the power sources being female outlets, there’s no risk of shock from exposed prongs.
One last thing, we added an additional ground rod connected through the cabin pole/wiring. There was already a ground at the main pole but we wanted the added safety of an additional ground. There were two challenges however: driving 10feet into the previously mentioned rocky soil, and placing the rod where it would be moist. A ground rod is ideally located in moist soil to be most effective. Driving the rod under the cabin would have been near impossible, and would be dry as a bone. To the side of the cabin we tried driving the rod in vertically and at a 45deg angle and failed miserably; just too many rocks. Our last option was to lay it in a 2ft deep trench outside the cabin footprint and make appropriate bends to get the end near the post. Not ideal, but it works.
