Wood burning stove installation

[BLACK SHIRT]

I have an old Fisher wood burner that i have restored and want to install in my house for emergency heat. Its in the house on an existing brick hearth with a floor to ceiling brick wall behind it. The house has a chimney with a terra cotta insert, 6.5x10.75. The stove has a 6" opening in the back, wall has an 8" hole to the chimney. questions?
Can I use standard 6" pipe straight to the hole in the chimney?
Do I need a damper?
Can I use the existing chimney with out running a 6" pipe all the way up to the roof?
Is there some sort of transition to go from the 6" pipe to the 8" hole in the wall?
Any other general tips for wood burning stove installation will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[Cedar]

You will have to get an adapter. Legally in most places it needs to be 8" these days.

Get double walled and run it up the chimney is my advice. How industry chimney

Post stove pics!!!

Cedar

[jbritely]

I had one where the pipe only went half way up and it was a mess and hard to clean.  I suggest going all the way up or make it so it is easy to take out for cleaning.  Half way was the worst (but met code at the time).

[Cedar]

In my last post, industry = how old is your chimey (according to my phone).

Wow, pipe halfway up was legal?

Cedar

[Stwood]

Clean that chimney and inspect real well for cracks and such before use.
Yes they make adapters. Most hardware stores that carry the black pipe should be able to fix you up with an adapter. 

[BLACK SHIRT]

Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I'm going all the way up with the pipe.

[IKN]

Yes, you need a damper. If you don't install one, your stove will go through wood like crazy and will always burn extremely hot. This also allows you to close it when not in use preventing natural convection from venting the heat in your house up the chimney.
When installing the pipe, ensure the female end of the pipe is up. This prevents the tar and condensed soot from leaking out on the floor and stove. This way it will drain back down the pipe and back into the stoves burn chamber.

[mountainmoma]

Yes, you need a damper. If you don't install one, your stove will go through wood like crazy and will always burn extremely hot. This also allows you to close it when not in use preventing natural convection from venting the heat in your house up the chimney.
When installing the pipe, ensure the female end of the pipe is up. This prevents the tar and condensed soot from leaking out on the floor and stove. This way it will drain back down the pipe and back into the stoves burn chamber.

I disagree about the damper. Airtight wood stoves have an intake air adjustment, that is what you want to use to adjust how fast the fire burns and to push to all closed when no fire.  A damper is on the output air, you dont need or want this as you do not want to obstruct the smoke getting out for a wood stove.

[Stwood]

Yes MM

But a regular, not airtight, leakie doors as ours is, one I made in 1980, needs, has to have, a pipe damper.

[IKN]

I disagree about the damper. Airtight wood stoves have an intake air adjustment, that is what you want to use to adjust how fast the fire burns and to push to all closed when no fire.  A damper is on the output air, you dont need or want this as you do not want to obstruct the smoke getting out for a wood stove.

You are correct, but wrong. The inlet air adjust is a damper in itself.
The ideal set-up is having an inlet and outlet damper. It's a balancing act to adjust them so that smoke, soot, and combustion gases don't leak out into your living space (relative negative pressure inside stove) yet provide a retention of heat in the stove without going straight out the flue pipe.

[CagedFeral]

It's hard to answer this without seeing the whole chimney. Was it used before like this? How long ago?

I'd check it really good, every bit you can. Might want to hire an inspector. To get house insurance you might need prove of inspection anyway.