Author Topic: AR-15 DIY Build Thread (Read 33253 times)

Orionblade · « **Reply #120 on:** April 03, 2010, 05:40:17 PM »

Just for fun put a square of aluminum foil in a glass of salt water and drop a penny on it. Come back to it. In an hour. 1 tablespoon of salt to 16 oz of water is plenty.

fndrbndr · « **Reply #121 on:** June 18, 2010, 02:28:15 PM »

I'm pretty sure you guys already know about this, but I thought I'd share it anyway:

AR-15 Build FAQ
http://www.bushmaster.com/faqs/?f=39

03USMCRAR_WA · « **Reply #122 on:** July 26, 2010, 10:55:25 PM »

Quote from: cajunkraut on September 21, 2009, 11:27:56 AM

I called CMMG on Friday and talked to one of the armorers and he told me that all of the Perma-Pins he's installed are like that, but he's never had a problem with them backing out of the bolt carrier and galling the inside of the receiver. We'll see when I take it to the range. I've got two extra cotter pins just in case

As much as i like CMMG, for small parts either go through Delton or Rock River. I've personally build over seventy AR's on ever platform from POF to the cheapest $40 milled lower one could find at a gun show and those two companies always seem to come through for me.

dpmsar15 · « **Reply #123 on:** October 05, 2010, 10:04:31 AM »

She started out as just a stripped lower from my local gunshop. One of the things I love best about DIY AR builds is that for someone like me (starving college student

), you can purchase parts and built it in your own time(as long as it took me to save up money). You don't have to dump a ton of money all at once.

exile27 · « **Reply #124 on:** October 07, 2010, 05:24:34 PM »

Good stuff here guys!

Since I'm also on a limited budget, I've been picking up parts for my AR build over the last year or so. It has actually worked out quite well for me, as I've been able to watch for the parts I know I want to go on sale.

So far I've got:
Spike's stripped lower
Spike's enhanced lpk
mil-spec buffer tube assembly w/ an ST-T2 buffer
Magpul CTR (in fde)
DSA ZM4 flattop upper (1/9 twist, nitride coated)
Magpul MOE handgards (in fde)
BCM gunfighter charging handle
Magpul ASAP and MS2 sling

Next I plan to buy a Spikes NiB BCG and a Troy rear BUIS. And because I live in Commiefornia, I've also gotta get a raddlock bullet button.

I'll try to post some pics on here once I put it all together.

DeltaEchoVictor · « **Reply #125 on:** October 07, 2010, 06:05:41 PM »

Quote from: dpmsar15 on October 05, 2010, 10:04:31 AM

She started out as just a stripped lower from my local gunshop. One of the things I love best about DIY AR builds is that for someone like me (starving college student ), you can purchase parts and built it in your own time(as long as it took me to save up money). You don't have to dump a ton of money all at once.

Nice rifle.

*Build as you can* really is a huge advantage to the AR platform. It's such a versatile platform too, you can go as crazy or as tame as you like.

Quote from: exile27 on October 07, 2010, 05:24:34 PM

Good stuff here guys!

Since I'm also on a limited budget, I've been picking up parts for my AR build over the last year or so. It has actually worked out quite well for me, as I've been able to watch for the parts I know I want to go on sale.

So far I've got:
Spike's stripped lower
Spike's enhanced lpk
mil-spec buffer tube assembly w/ an ST-T2 buffer
Magpul CTR (in fde)
DSA ZM4 flattop upper (1/9 twist, nitride coated)
Magpul MOE handgards (in fde)
BCM gunfighter charging handle
Magpul ASAP and MS2 sling

Next I plan to buy a Spikes NiB BCG and a Troy rear BUIS. And because I live in Commiefornia, I've also gotta get a raddlock bullet button.

I'll try to post some pics on here once I put it all together.

Your rifle sounds like she's shaping up to be sweet as well. We'll require pics when she's done.

Don't cheat us out of the gun pr0n, man.

dpmsar15 · « **Reply #126 on:** October 08, 2010, 02:20:09 PM »

Quote from: DeltaEchoVictor on October 07, 2010, 06:05:41 PM

Nice rifle. *Build as you can* really is a huge advantage to the AR platform. It's such a versatile platform too, you can go as crazy or as tame as you like.

Thanks man that means a lot. This rifle is special to me because i didn't just walk into the gun store and swipe my card, I bought and built it piece by piece. Not to knock those who buy complete rifles or anything, im jealous of those people and I would love to be able to afford to go in and purchase a complete set up all at once. When I finish my masters ill probably save up and look to buy a complete long barrel AR.

dpmsar15 · « **Reply #127 on:** October 08, 2010, 02:23:14 PM »

Here are the details on my AR. I would recommend the Eotech 557 to anyone in the market, I love the thing.

Rifle: Double Star Lower, DPMS upper with 16" barrel, Double Star internal parts kit.

Accessories: Midwest Industries quad rail, Surefire Millennium M952XM07 weapon light with a FM63 IR filter that the store threw in to secure the sale Wink, Stag Arms 6 position collapsible stock, Hogue grip, Magpul FDE rail ladders, Magpul Pmag, generic hard plastic forward grip.

Sights: Eotech 557, fixed front sight and a rear fold down sight(Can't remember the make & model off the top of my head)

dpmsar15 · « **Reply #128 on:** October 08, 2010, 02:24:58 PM »

Quote from: exile27 on October 07, 2010, 05:24:34 PM

Good stuff here guys!

Since I'm also on a limited budget, I've been picking up parts for my AR build over the last year or so. It has actually worked out quite well for me, as I've been able to watch for the parts I know I want to go on sale.

So far I've got:
Spike's stripped lower
Spike's enhanced lpk
mil-spec buffer tube assembly w/ an ST-T2 buffer
Magpul CTR (in fde)
DSA ZM4 flattop upper (1/9 twist, nitride coated)
Magpul MOE handgards (in fde)
BCM gunfighter charging handle
Magpul ASAP and MS2 sling

Next I plan to buy a Spikes NiB BCG and a Troy rear BUIS. And because I live in Commiefornia, I've also gotta get a raddlock bullet button.

I'll try to post some pics on here once I put it all together.

Where in Ca are you? I am in the Bay Area and I have found some good shops that specialize in AR's up here.

Orionblade · « **Reply #129 on:** October 08, 2010, 05:57:26 PM »

I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on the Wylde chamber?

exile27 · « **Reply #130 on:** October 08, 2010, 06:30:48 PM »

Quote from: dpmsar15 on October 08, 2010, 02:24:58 PM

Where in Ca are you? I am in the Bay Area and I have found some good shops that specialize in AR's up here.

I'm up in El Dorado county, inbetween Sacramento and Tahoe. There are a few decent shops up here that carry a lot of AR stuff, but I've bought pretty much everything besides the lower on line. Like I said, since I've been piecing everything together over time, I've been able to check different sites and watch for the parts I want to go on sale.

Muddyboots · « **Reply #131 on:** October 08, 2010, 06:43:33 PM »

The strength of the Wylde chamber is the neck dimension. It is designed for a good seal on ball ammo for competition. A slight refinement was done by Derrick Martin of Accuracy Speaks. Really this stuff is for competition use. In general, you want a 5.56 chamber in a working rifle.

HTH!

Muddyboots

dpmsar15 · « **Reply #132 on:** October 09, 2010, 12:57:56 AM »

Quote from: Orionblade on October 08, 2010, 05:57:26 PM

I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on the Wylde chamber?

For a mid lenth like mine I doubt I would notice the difference so I chose the 5.56 and have had no regrets. I doubt most people shoot well enough to notice an increase with the Wylde. Plus last I checked the Wylde chamber costs more. Not sure lately though, I haven't shopped around in a while.

Orionblade · « **Reply #133 on:** October 09, 2010, 10:34:13 AM »

That was kind of my thought - it seems like it's for a match-grade gun, and from what I've read/experienced with 1911's, a slightly looser platform is better for a potential combat scenario due to dirt and grime. The only thing that grabbed my attention was the slight wobble in the chamber that supposedly allowed for easier extraction of cases fired @ higher pressure - but a tighter throat would prevent a slightly dirty round from chambering properly.

Also, the funky chamber might make it harder to reload the ammo after w/o a full length resize?

Dunno. I think I'll stick with "good enough" and go 5.56 - thanks for the input guys!

jbm555 · « **Reply #134 on:** November 12, 2010, 11:01:49 AM »

Quote from: wbo3 on October 30, 2008, 10:11:32 AM

Don't get a "special tool". Go to Lowe's Home Depot, whatever. Get yourself a 1/4" clevis pin. You can insert your spring and detent pin through the holes in the clevis pin, rotate the clevis pin with your punch while pushing the detent into place. With the clevis pin holding your detent, it is just a matter of pushing your front takedown pin into place while backing out the clevis pin. It is much harder to explain that to actually do. I will try to get some pictures together and do a tutorial. I need to assemble my spare lower anyway...

This is exactly what I did. However I had to drill the hole in the pin out a tiny bit. < $2 and no shipping.

smurf hunter · « **Reply #135 on:** May 26, 2011, 10:25:15 AM »

There are a couple reasons I think I'd prefer a scratch DIY build:

1) learn how it all goes together
2) buy parts slowly over time (wife won't notice $150-250 each month if I budget a little)

My main aversion to this approach is all the specialty tools. Things like roll pin holders and punches, armorers wrench.
I understand by buying a complete upper I can avoid much of that sub-assembly, and thus special tools.

Maybe a hybrid buying approach, with a few big purchases (complete upper, BCG, etc.) would actually net less cost if I didn't need all the special tools.

FYI: I just read http://www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/diy-ar-15-build-introduction-parts-and-tools-required/ and that's where I got the tool price list in my head.

hillclimber · « **Reply #136 on:** September 01, 2011, 03:18:37 PM »

I picked up an A3 Bushmaster 20" H-Bar upper with all the usual stuff (charging handle, bolt, carrier, carry handle) on "the cheap" last week. It had been a new complete rifle, but had been parted out at the local class3 dealer, to build up a carbine for county PD.
Haven't had a 20" upper in several years and thought @ $400 for a new Busmaster upper...what the hell.
I've had a box of AR parts kicking around for some time now, and was figuring on using the lower that I've had for many years. That way I'd have my carbine upper and a rifle upper to play with too.
Well, long story short, at the dealer I also ended up buying a Bushmaster lower parts kit ($65), and a Stag Arms stripped lower($115). Pretty impressed with the Stag Arms lower. The overall quality is really pretty good. There are a few edges that may be a little sharp compared to my old Bushmaster, but it runs great (as does my old Bushmaster lower with the 20" upper).

So let's see, that's 580 bucks, a box of old parts, a couple of cans of PBR and an hour and a half of labor, and.....poof.... Two nice ARs insted of one.

nelson96 · « **Reply #137 on:** January 15, 2012, 09:57:05 PM »

I'm thinking of changing out my barrel to improve accuracy and I read somewhere once to . . . "make sure your upper is true where the barrel extension contacts it. There are lapping tools for this".

Does anyone know what this person meant by this? Feeling even more stupid to ask this, but which side would you lapp if needed?

I'm new to these AR's but somewhat mechanically inclined and unafraid of diving in, but not rich enough to make changes that don't offer improvements.

Muddyboots · « **Reply #138 on:** January 21, 2012, 06:40:15 PM »

Unless you are shooting competitions, so called truing can actually cause you more trouble than it fixes. If you have a high quality upper from BCM, SMT, LMT Colts (to name a few) it will be true already. If it isn't, what other steps did the manufacturer skimp to cut costs on? Pick a good barrel, torque it correctly, give the extension a new bolt head to wear into. ( yes, you can swap them, but not on a precision rig!) Now, Feed it quality ammo from a good source and keep records.

I've seen off the rack Noveske Recce uppers shoot .25 MOA at 100M. That shows you what is possible.

Muddyboots

antiwraith · « **Reply #139 on:** October 17, 2012, 02:09:56 PM »

Quote from: fndrbndr on June 18, 2010, 02:28:15 PM

I'm pretty sure you guys already know about this, but I thought I'd share it anyway:

AR-15 Build FAQ
http://www.bushmaster.com/faqs/?f=39

Just read over this, quick question. In the link above, it says that a post ban AR cannot have more than2 features from a list of items. However my .22 AR has 3 items from the list. It has a collapsible stock, a detachable magazine, and a pistol grip. Has the law changed? Or am I misunderstanding the pistol grip aspect (it means a second grip under the barrel, not the grip behind the pistol)?

Muddyboots · « **Reply #140 on:** October 17, 2012, 07:55:34 PM »

The terms pre ban and post ban only matter if you live in a state that has their own ban. There is no federal ban it went the way of alcohol prohibition.

If you live in a ban state, there are all kinds of hoops to be aware of.

HTH!

Muddyboots

backwoods_engineer · « **Reply #141 on:** November 30, 2012, 08:10:41 PM »

Okay, here's my $444 lightweight AR build. Details are below:

(Click for Bigger Pic)

New Frontier Armory LW-15 Polymer Lower	$ 71	+S&H+FFL	JoeBob Outfitters
16" 5.56 1 in 9 flat-top M4 upper w/ Rail-height Gas Block, Lightweight polymer handguard & A2 flash Hider	$335	+S&H	JSE Surplus
Burris FastFire II w/Picatinny Rail Mount	$150	+S&H	eBay
Carbine-style stock	$30		Friend
Sling swivel mount for receiver buffer tube	$5		Gun show

So, not including shipping and fees, I've got $444 in the rifle. The upper was a "Black Rifle Friday" special from JSE and they are out of stock now. The lower is still on sale for the price above. The sight is normally $200, and I save $50 by getting a lightly used one.

It weights 6 lbs with a magazine (no ammo in it). Balance is very good. Looking forward to going to shoot it tomorrow; I just finished putting the red-dot sight on it.

nelson96 · « **Reply #142 on:** November 30, 2012, 08:32:50 PM »

That's damn cheap. Let us know how it shoots and holds up.

backwoods_engineer · « **Reply #143 on:** November 30, 2012, 09:57:20 PM »

Quote from: nelson96 on November 30, 2012, 08:32:50 PM

That's damn cheap. Let us know how it shoots and holds up.

Planning to go break in the barrel in the morning...

PrepperJim · « **Reply #144 on:** November 30, 2012, 11:57:47 PM »

Quote from: backwoods_engineer on November 30, 2012, 08:10:41 PM

Okay, here's my $444 lightweight AR build. Details are below:

Very nice. It looks a lot like the M&P15 OR that I recently purchased. Except I paid $899 for mine plus I need to put optics on it.

At some point, I need to build my own AR. But, that is a year or more away.... For now, I need to bide my time with my wife....

backwoods_engineer · « **Reply #145 on:** December 01, 2012, 03:21:45 PM »

PrepperJim, I got it "one piece at a time" like the old Johnny Cash song says...

I'm up to 55 rounds through the rifle now. All kinds of crud was coming out of there for the first 25 rounds, when I was shooting 1 and then cleaning. About then, the number of times I had to pull patches through before they came out almost clean started going down. After 25 rounds, I was cleaning every 10 (per JSE's instructions). It's a fun shooter.

I do think I am going to have to have a Picatinny rail riser to bring up the height of my Burris red-dot sight, though. Without it, I have to put my head in kind of a weird position. Comments requested.

AngusBangus · « **Reply #146 on:** December 06, 2012, 12:18:03 PM »

Quote from: backwoods_engineer on December 01, 2012, 03:21:45 PM

I do think I am going to have to have a Picatinny rail riser to bring up the height of my Burris red-dot sight, though. Without it, I have to put my head in kind of a weird position. Comments requested.

Shooting an AR is a little different than any other platform I've fired. Uncle Sam taught me to put the tip of my nose right against the charging handle to help ensure that my sight picture is identical every time. That puts your head in a strange spot compared to shooting a 300WMag with a scope on risers... a weapon on which you want to ensure your nose is nowhere NEAR anything metal. When I taught my dad to fire that way, he found it really strange. But he told me earlier this week that it feels very natural.

backwoods_engineer · « **Reply #147 on:** December 06, 2012, 03:28:45 PM »

Angus, yeah, my shooting buddies taught me "nose to the charging handle", too. I guess I'm worried about getting smacked in the shnoz

Since that picture, I have put a riser on the red dot sight. It is much more comfortable now.

Muddyboots · « **Reply #148 on:** December 07, 2012, 07:23:33 PM »

Nose to charging handle is taught because it is a reference point that people can understand. Consistent position is what you are really going for. If that happens to be with the tip of your nose against the charging handle, great! Just don't loose sight (sic) of the reasons behind that thinking!

I bet that RDS is working much better for you on the riser! That's why people talk about absolute or lower third co-witness...

Keep us posted on the new beast!

Muddyboots

Mountain State Prepper · « **Reply #149 on:** December 17, 2012, 04:10:01 PM »

A local gun shop has Delaware Machinery lowers (stamped 5.56) for $120. Anyone have any experience w/ these? Is this a good price for Dec 2012? I searched around google, seen folks buying these a couple years ago for $80-90. Some folks complained about them not being spec, others argued that cheaper lower parts kits were to blame.

The guy at the gun shop seems like a good enough fellow. I prefer to buy locally if I can. He also tells me that there are really only a few real manufacturers that do casting, and they do the branding for the more popular lowers I've heard of (rock river, stag, spikes, etc). Is this true? Is a lower just a lower?

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Author Topic: AR-15 DIY Build Thread (Read 33253 times)