Author Topic: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In  (Read 39898 times)

Offline Mr. Bill

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #30 on: December 14, 2010, 09:01:23 PM »
Even if it was, the plan backfired.

There have been some really great posts in this thread from some very self-reliant, do-it-yourselfers!   

Kudos to all of you! :clap:

FYI, the mods did notice the odor of spam emanating from the first post, but it has definitely launched a very good discussion.

I discovered a few years ago that most of the screws connecting my door hinges to the frame were 3/8" long.  Barely enough to keep the door from falling off! >:(

Offline Daminal

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #31 on: December 14, 2010, 09:21:02 PM »
This is my first post here.  I came across this online a while ago.  Opinions welcome:

www.doordevil.com/

endurance

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #32 on: December 14, 2010, 10:51:04 PM »
I discovered a few years ago that most of the screws connecting my door hinges to the frame were 3/8" long.  Barely enough to keep the door from falling off! >:(
The front door I just installed this fall was pre-hung with sub-1" screws on the hinge, however, the instructions clearly said to replace them with 2 1/2" screws and came with them.  While I did replace half the screws with the 2 1/2" screws, the rest I replaced with 3 1/2" screws.  I would have used all 3 1/2", but I only had a handful left and wanted to use most putting in the strike plates and backing steel and besides, it's pretty rare that the hinge side fails no matter what.  Even 15 2" screws in three widely placed groups beats the heck out of the 4-8 tightly spaced screws on the strike plate side.  Unfortunately, my door, as with most, the deadbolt hole was pre-drilled, forcing it to be too close to the door knob lock, placing all the stress on a small part of the door.  If you're installing a deadbolt for the first time, move it higher on the door to spread out the load on both the door and the frame.  That move alone makes a door much more kick resistant.  Ideally, I'd want the two 10" apart, but pre-drilled doors place them only about 4" apart.  It's all about cosmetics and standardization for aftermarket products, not security.

I wish I would have done a series of pictures throughout the install so I could show what I see as proper install of a standard door with a steel bar on the strike plate side.  Oh well, too late on that door, by in the spring I'm planning on replacing the kitchen door and I'll just have to remember to photograph my install then.  It's an incredibly cheap upgrade that I think most folks will agree beats anything short of a full steel frame door that opens out.  That said, my GF would never buy off on an exterior door like that on the house.  I am hoping to put one downstairs to secure my preps, but still haven't found a local source (need to look at commercial, not residential doors).  Also, I'm not certain it's in the budget.  I may have to just go with the most solid exterior steel door I can find and do my best to strengthen it up. 

Offline ore2u

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #33 on: January 06, 2011, 10:34:58 AM »
Strike plates will do nothing. The door doesn't brake the Jamb does. I have to replace mine. this time I am building a piece 3/8 steel bar that has the striker hole and dead bolt hole in is along with screw holes. I am using a chisel and a hand plane to remove wood from the jamb and installing the steel with 3" screws so that they are in the studs not the jamb material.


Offline canprep

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #34 on: July 19, 2011, 02:33:50 PM »
Just make sure there is no city bylaw against hardening your house. It does happen   

Offline tomtom

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #35 on: November 22, 2011, 11:57:33 AM »
I still like this thing, I think I saw it on here. If they set off the alarm it shoots them with pepper spray.

http://burglarbomb.com/AB-2000.aspx

Offline Prepper7

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #36 on: November 22, 2011, 07:07:48 PM »
This will put your hinge pins on the out side,.. and allow the intruder to just remove the door. Also,.. a exterior door openning in allows you to put your foot in front of it as a 'barrier'.. depending on a persons size it may not do anything,.. but does help.. a little.

I have seen an uptick in invasions and thefts,.. is it the time of year, economy or unemployment.  Regardless - little will stop a determined person who wants in...  I've always wanted to build my own doors,.. but know they are expensive,.. and heavy.

Hope your SIL is ok.

In addition to idelphic's point, an inward-opening door allows use of braces / clubs to supplement the locks.

I would also be quite concerned that in the event of an earthquake, tornado, or hurricane, the door could become blocked, preventing escape. Bad guys could also trap the family inside...

Offline Prepper7

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #37 on: November 22, 2011, 07:19:19 PM »
Errrm, am i the only one who thinks this is just spam?  Seriously, it was the guy's first post and it's a dramatic story with a like to a $100 product. <snip>

My spidey since was tingling, too, but not quite enough to call shenanigans.  ;)  And the resulting discussion seem rather productive.

Offline LdMorgan

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #38 on: November 22, 2011, 10:07:15 PM »
I agree that a steel door & frame are the first and best starting place.

After that, everything else is just added security.

Your door should be just as strong as your walls, and your windows as strong and as unapproachable as possible.

One thing always worth having is a stock police siren wired to a wall switch. Turning that baby on will usually put would-be intruders to flight.

Another thing worth having is a really loud boom-box, all loaded up and ready to play. When you hit it, your intruders hear a lot of male cursing, chairs falling over, three or four male names as somebody very large-sounding tells everybody else to grab their guns, the sound of heavy feet pounding down a wooden stairway, and the sound of three or four shotgun slides being racked back.

By the time the CD gets to the part where your imaginary army has the door covered and is ready to fire, your intruders will be well on their way outta Dodge.

Offline Roamer

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #39 on: November 23, 2011, 04:57:58 AM »
 I bought the Doordevil a while back and just around to installing it.

I ran into the problem of my gap between the door and the strike plate jab is too small to fit
the kick plate. Instructions say to recess the plate using a small trim router.
What is that and how will any router get in the small area?

Offline ncjeeper

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #40 on: November 23, 2011, 10:53:11 AM »
Could you run a planner down the door edge instead? That seems easier.

Offline Roamer

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #41 on: November 23, 2011, 03:33:23 PM »
If I had a planer it might be easier. But I do not. So I was thinking about making  some type of jig to make my
Dremel router attachment work.

Offline amtank

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #42 on: November 10, 2012, 07:26:48 PM »
This reminds me of a funny story, every time I move into an apartment I take out the door screws to see how long they are. One of my new neighbors comes walking by and is quizzical?

"What on earth are you doing....etc" 

Need less to say they were 1" screws all around. I took the box of 3 1/4" screws off the table and asked, would you rather have these...or these holding your door together?

Offline Roamer

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #43 on: November 26, 2012, 02:49:49 PM »
If I had a planer it might be easier. But I do not. So I was thinking about making  some type of jig to make my
Dremel router attachment work.

  I had a professional carpenter friend of mine come over and route out the door frame and install the Devil.
I could not put all the long screws in because I live in a log house. They routed out the door jab to run the electrical wires.

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Re: Your door will not stop a kick in. Day time Kick In
« Reply #44 on: November 26, 2012, 05:58:03 PM »
I really have been meaning to do a blog post on hardening a front door. Stuff like this is a decent way. I might add this type of strike plate to my current doors. All things said, it is hard to be motivated to make front doors much harder to get through than windows. But if I'm messing with a door already...

Solid door - Being solid is the intuitive response, and I stick with solid on the front door for other reasons (longevity and appearance mostly), but I've seen a number of SWAT vids about the door they hate the most - the flexible ones. The decent hollow core that is meant to be an external door. They are like rubber and absorb an obnoxious amount of shock from kicks and even battering rams. Often the ram ends up either bouncing off several times or going through the door (in the case of the super cheap ones) a few times before they get it perfectly lined up on the door knobs and get the door open. You can forget kicking one in as well. I got the opportunity to see what it takes to kick in one of these even without a deadbolt. I was laying into the thing with running body slams, kicks, you name it for about 20 minutes before it had weakened enough that I could curve it enough with a kick for the door latch to flex past the strike plate. It was like kicking a wall of tires. If I was designing residential security doors, the ultimate would be alternating strips of steel to form the outer face (and stop breach rounds cold), and fiberglass studs lined up but not actually solid for the remainder. 90% of any entry attempt would be wasted on the door absorbing the shock.

Steel recessed cups - the dead bolt shouldn't go into wood. Most decent lock sets now come with steel cups. The cups go into the hole, and 3 - 5 3" screws mount the cup to the 4x4 door frame. The extended dead bolt is then shrouded by steel, and you are looking at breaking out a solid chunk of a 4x4 rather than just the wood directly in front of the bolt.